The Wife of Napoleon

Melinda and I have wondered since being here, if Frau Greneville's lineage is of nobility. No, really, we have. One of the teachers at the American Institute said once that families with a last name made of two hyphenated names came from the Austrian or Hungarian nobility. Our host's full last name is Folliot-Greneville.

Yesterday she told us about some of her ancestors. Apparently there is a Family History archive in Vienna. Her great-great-grandmother was a close friend of Maria Louis, who was Napoleon's second wife. They kept a close correspondence throughout Maria's life, including her marriage to Napoleon and her life afterward. Frau Greneville was able to read through her Great-great-grandmother's letters (written in French) at the Family History archive. She told us about the things that Maria Louis wrote in her letters. She didn't want to marry Napoleon but knew that it was necessary. She found herself in a hard position after her marriage because she couldn't speak or meet with her father, since he was then an enemy against France. And as her son grew up away from her in the Austrian court, she often wrote about how much she wanted to see him. She would make plans to visit him in Vienna but they were always foiled.

I find it so interesting to see someone's family history so interconnected with famous events in European history. Its amazing.

Two other girls in our group are staying with nobility. Cara is staying with a Baroness. Julia is staying with a Countess, who gives parties nearly everyday or is off visiting one of her children at their various castles and mansions. She is part of the Hungarian nobility. Her first husband, who she divorce, was a direct descendant of the Emperor Franz-Josef. Thus all of her children are Princes and Princesses. The Countess' (who likes to be called Tante Hanna--Aunt Hannah) apartment is not opulent, if you overlook the crystal chandeliers in every single room. The style is elegant and refined. And everyone still has to share one bathroom--even the maid Eva. Eva is an elderly Hungarian woman. She is small and hunched over but is a sweet lady. She's very caring and takes good care of the Countess' guests ( like the students staying there).

Kein Salat . . .

Last night I went to see the operetta "Fra Diavolo" at the Volksoper. Luckily the theater wasn't crowded and we were given seats for the whole performance. So we got to sit for the Stehplatz price! The opera was hilarious! I was giggling the whole time. The music was delightful and at times the performers sang so fast my jaw went slack. The story followed Fra Diavolo, an infamous Italian bandit, who procedes to rob a rich English Lord and Lady. The Lord and Lady were a funny pair, first showing up in their underwear and fur coats holding their yorkshire Daisy, having been robbed of everything else. Fra Diavolo's two henchmen, Beppo and Giacomo were reminiscent of Laurel and Hardy.

My favorite part of the whole opera was the scene where Beppo was trying to read a secret letter from Fra Diavolo aloud but kept misreading the words. He'd say " . . . ein Salat," (a salad) and Giacomo would storm over to read it correctly to say, "kein Soldat." (no soldier). Beppo finishes the letter and says in confusion, "Its from his wife." Giacomo looks over in confusion and looks at the letter, asking how he knew this. Beppo points to the signature, saying "Frau Diavolo," and Giacomo rolls his eyes and slaps his on the head. "It says Fra Diavolo!"

Ketchup, among other things

Last week was very busy (hence, I haven't blogged for a whole week). Besides having classes, we took a tour of the Wagenburg, the carriage museum, which was very interest. My favorites were the leopard-skin sleigh and the children's carriage pulled by trained sheep. We again toured the the Schonbrunn gardens and stopped by for ice cream before going home. I saw three operas last week--two in Stehplatz and one sitting outside in the plaze of the Staatoper. I saw Madame Butterfly, Don Carlo, and Die Fledermaus. My favorites were M. Butterfly, during which I cried most of the second half, and Fledermaus,which, as always, is hilarious.

On Friday we took a trip to Eisenstadt, a town about 2 hours from Vienna, and the hometown of Haydn. We took several tours talking about Haydn. My favorite story was hearing about his death. He wanted a big ceremonial funeral, but because the Vienna was occupied by the French when he died, he got only a modest one. Years later, the head of the Estherhazy family wanted to give Haydn the burial he'd wanted and also to instill his body in a church rather than a grave yard. But when they opened his coffin, Haydn's head was missing. A Professor had taken in for research. When the authorities asked for the head back, he gave them the head of a different old man, which was then buried with Haydn's body. Only in the 1950's, when his head, after being passed from doctor to doctor, was donated to the Vienna Music Society, was his body reunited with his head. Interest, yes?

Saturday we went to the Prater Funpark and rode the famous giant ferriswheel. The view was beautiful and the sky was very clear that day.

The Toilet Paper Adventures

As everyone knows, Americans generally consume more of everything--food, space, gas. And toilet paper. Melinda and I had been going through the normal amount at our apartment. So we thought nothing of it when it ran out two days after Frau Greneville had last stocked the bathroom. But when Melinda told Frau Greneville we were out of toilet paper again, the austrian woman was shocked.
"Already out? But I just put more in yesterday!"
Feeling surprised, a little guilty, and frightened that we had ruffled our host, we went on our way. The day was busy and full of school and touring. Melinda and I didn't see much of each other that evening. After I was finished at school I stopped at the grocery store on my way home specifically to buy toilet paper. I hid it in my wardrobe at the apartment when I got home. Melinda came home a bit later and while unpacking her things, pulled out a pack of toilet paper. We had both bought toilet paper to use so Frau Greneville wouldn't get upset about the great use of toilet paper. So now we have a secret stash in our drawers, just in case.

Hey everyone. Today marked the beginning of my second full week in Vienna. We had classes all day (we just got out)--German language, Art history, and Viennese history. By far my favorite so far is Art history. Our professor, Prof. Kroell (prononounced Krill with a rolling r) has taken a different approach to art thus far that I haven't encountered before. Today we talked about ancient art and its various purposes.

Last week was a busy whirlwind. We toured the Schoennbrunn Palace and some of the gardens, visited the Roman ruins of Carnuntum, and ate dinner at a traditional Austrian restaurant, called a Heurigen (Hoy-rig-en). Schoennbrunn was appropriately named. The palace was beautiful and the history of its past inhabitants is fascinating. It was home to famous figures such as Maria Theresa, Emperor Franz-Josef, and Empress Elisabeth. The gardens are beauitful. The central gardens are very manicured. The flowers, bushes and trees are all perfectly hedged and cut. But on either side lie stretches of woodland with paths wandering through them. The woods are picturesque and peaceful. Carnuntum was interesting. I think my favorite part was the Amphiteater ruins. You can walk right down into the remains of the arena. They have a small sand pit in the middle for reinactments so a few of the boys in our group to advantage of it and acted out their own rendition of gladiator fights. It was very entertaining. The Heurigen had delicious food. Our first course was salad--potatoes with vinegar, cabbage with vinegar, cucumbers with vinegar, and bread with various spreads. I took a whole spoonful of what looked like grated cheese and sprinkled it all over my cucumbers. When I took a bite I nearly cried--it was grated horseradish. Gross! Word to the wise--it is NEVER cheese ;).

On Saturday a few of us from the group, myself included, participated in the dedication of the LDS section of the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetary) of Vienna. I sang in the Institue Choir for the ceremony. We sang 'This is the Christ' and 'Come Thou Fount of Every Blessing.' It was a great experience. A lot of people came. The National Austrian Television station was there as well as several prominent political figures. The sister in charge was warming up the choir was very enthusiastic and perhaps a bit eccentric. Her warm-up before the ceremony included patting a partner on the head, the shoulders, and right on down their backside. I think the only people who did all of the exercises were the elders who were paired together. Go figure. But it was funny to watch.

Kirche auf Deutsch

Today was our first day attending our Austrian wards. I loved it! I didn't understand the majority of what was said, but I got the gist of what was being taught. I unknowingly volunteered for the opening prayer in Relief Society. A member of the Relief Society Presidency came up to us and said something about how we could speak either German or English. I assumed she meant when we wanted to participate in class. So I nodded my head vigorously to show that I understood. She, delighted, sat down next to me and asked me for my name. When I told her my name, I saw that she wrote it down on the program next to AG (Angang Gebet--opening prayer) and I realized that I had signed up for more than I had bargained for. With the help of Carolyn and Melinda, I wrote down what I remembered of saying prayers in German. The actual prayer was iffy, but I enjoyed the experience thoroughly and loved participating in the ward, even just in a small way.

After church, Cara and I traveled down to the Donau River. We got turned around a few times but finally found it. It was lovely to walk down the promenade of the river with a light breeze and warm sunshine.

Yesterday (Saturday) Melinda and I had our first big meal with our Host, Frau Greneville. It was absolutely delicious! We had homemade tomato soup with noodles and a dish called Semmelschmarr'n, which was broken up pieces of rolls or pancakes and raisins that had been sweeten. I could have eaten it ALL DAY. It was so good.

Catacombs and Schnitzel

My feet are definitely sore after two days of walking miles over the city. Vienna is truly as beautiful as everyone says. The architecture is lovely and very ornate. And there is so much to see and do!

Yesterday we met out host families. Melinda and I met ours, Frau Greneville, early in the morning. She couldn't meet us that evening because she had to attend a funeral. We lugged our bags up three flights of stairs to our temporary home, which was a relatively simple, small apartment. Our room is cozy, rustic and antiquated. On the wall hangs two portraits of Emperor Franz-Josef and his wife Empress Elisabeth. We have two large wooden wardrobes, two desks, a bookshelf full of German books and a rustic looking piano.

Frau Greneville is an older lady, with sharp features and dark brown hair streaked with grey. She speaks very good English. In fact, she speaks nothing else to us. Melinda and I are going to have to ask her to speak only German. She is babysitting her 10-month old granddaughter Allisha for her daughter who is on vacation in California. She is such a cute baby. Whenever she is in the room, Melinda and I stare at her and she stares back.

Today we took a tour of St Stephan's Cathedral. It is a beautiful cathedral. Our tour guide was really cute ;). Everytime he said something even romotely funny, you'd hear all the girls (including me) giggle. The most fascinating part of the tour was the catacombs. I've never been to a catacomb before. We saw actual skeletons from the 1600's and stacks of bones and skulls. I REALLY felt like Indiana Jones!

Tonight we're going to Schnitzelwirt, which is called Herb's by Americans. They are supposed to have really good, and relatively cheap wienerschnitzel. Tchuss!

Indiana Jones and Indigestion

I only listened to the song for thirty seconds Tuesday morning, but I replayed it in my head at every possible momentous moment the rest of the day--when I stepped out of the car at the airport, when I bought my over-priced airport trail mix, when I boarded the plane. I have to walk the length of the whole plane to reach the bathroom before someone else does and my bladder explodes? Cue the music.
Funny, though, I felt akin to Indie throughout the day digging up to my shoulder through my backpack.
And just as I'm sure Indie had indegestion (monkey brains would do it if nothing else did) I'd suffered the whole evening the night before. And then I threw up on the plane. I don't think I'll eat and in-flight meal ever again. Thinking of it still makes me want to barf.
And just as I'm sure Indie would avoid crying in public at all costs, yesterday I really did try. But I cried anyway.